Well i finnally got back home this monday to find a nice big package awaiting me at my doorstep

Inside was a brand new in box factory team T4 truck with some extra sets of tires (anyone need some holeshots?)

So i spent about 8 hours over the next 2 days and went from a few bags of parts to this:











Well i got to drive about 2 5000mah lipo packs through it (about 40 minutes) with a 17.5 motor... I gotta say I'm glad i went associated. Its light and quick and responds fast and perdictably to steering inputs. It turns tight enough for me to run it on my backyard track lol! Cant wait till i get a 13.5 and start racing

I can't wait untill I get to go to LHR and smoke you. lmao


Anyways the truck looks good so far, but a tip on the ESC move it back so it is in about the same location as the Rx, and also if you have the solder posts to the back or the inside it will look a lot cleaner of an install. Keep in mind everyone who runs the T4 (includeing me runs the ESC near the back of the truck.

I would also recomend thumb screws for the battery strap. For one they are easier ot use, and being that there is more surface area it will also protect the CF strap from breaking by the bodyclip through the screw setup.


As for tires I know I can make use of hole shots. lol Also you killed those ifmar pins.

WOW! That's a really nice looking truck!!! I really like the paint and body too!

Any driving reports yet??

Can I assume this is 1/10th scale!?

Nice job there Master!

Yes it is a 10th scale truck, and is the RC10T4 FT (Made by AE). In fact it is the same truck that I have (note the avatar).

I noticed the pins on the rear are worn on the center of the tire...did they waer out already!?

The reason why I ask is I have little over a 1/2 gallon of nitro thru my relatively new RC10GT2, the pins are wearing quickly! My track is pretty much hard pack these days and it's becoming sort of a handful now LOL!

I was thinking of trying a pair of dirt hawgs - and comments?

My pins are wearing on the inside of my rears BTW. Maybe too much droop but it handles oretty well - not that I would know a good handling truck at this point ;-)

Althought I enjoy my 1/10th Traxxas stuff, the AE gear is really nice too, I love my RC10GT2, these look equally as nice!


Mark

The tires on his truck are known for fast wear, and to an extent they are a 1 run tire then you need a new pair.


The wear is a factor of camber, so normally if it is down the center then that means that there is 0 degrees of camber. That is good for a stright line but is normaly bad for turns. I like to run -1* of camber (top of the wheel leans in) in the rear to aid in side bite, but not kill foward traction. Other times I will run -1.5* or -2* depending on the track and what not. If it is slightly off center then that is fine, but if it is way off on the inside then you have way to much camber.

So in your case if it is on the inside of the tire where it is worn, you can try running less camber so the tire wears closer in the center. Although when you run - camber then the tire will wear faster on the inside due to the fact that the tire is leaning a little. If you don't have a camber gauge and you want it to be 0* then you could use a square (used with wood working) on a level surface to set the camber to 0*, although it might want to flip over or spin out in turns.


As for what tires will work for you, if you plan on running on a track you will need race tires if you don't want to spin out all the time. Although if you know how to roll on the throttle then you could get around with slicks on loose dirt (I won't start on how if you are at the track that MTM will race his truck at as you could run slicks at times). So if you wanted to use dirt hawgs you can, but I would only use those for play like in the street or if you want to truely train yourself at rolling the throttle (although you will be very slow on the track).

Also with out knowing what your track is like, I can't really help you much with what tires will work, but dirt hawgs will not work.

Thanks E3! I'm not racing, just driving on my back yard track which is a twisty two foot wide path - very hard dried dirt with a soft dusty layer...sun-baked hard pack, mother natures concrete ;-)

Thanks for the heads up on the camber, it makes sense, it corners decent but grabbing too much throttle on the straight sections can get you in a tail-wag quickly!

I was practicing throttle feather tonight - I haven't really messed with the rate adjustments on the stock controller either - I should do that too.

Mark

I don't know what to tell you about tires but you can make a real difference in the way it hooks up if you give the track a light misting of water from a garden hose with a fine spray. If you don't overdo it the tires will bite better.

thats a nice truck for sure

for the harder packed stuff maybe some holeshots, or something else with a lot of small pins in a hard compound

the lug

MTM, the shorter wires will look nicer, as well as if each wire was one piece. Also it isn't in your TC, and really what you could do is leave the motor in the truck and just take the wires off of the ESC (lol, then you can have the wires ready to go and the right size, then just hook up the ESC as needed).

Yeah the thumb screws are an aftermarket iteam for the B4/T4, but they do make things easier, as well as hold a little better (I was lucky and didn't have to buy mine as they came with my TC5, but being that I use tape for the battery I put them on my T4 )

As for the tires, I'm not sure they will work for me as they are not legal, Ok manly because I don't want to play around with gearing. lol

I will let you know when I can race there, but you need to be in the 13.5 class and not the rookie class, and even then I still might end up racing mod truck if that class runs. Although I do know I will race in the class that Doug Yunker races in (mod or 13.5), as that kid is the super stock (13.5) roar nat champ, and I would guess he will smoke just about everyone who races there. I also hope that I don't have my normal bad luck, as there are times where I could have a good run if I didn't have a switch turn off (or not turn on), used the right tires, etc. But I do have another issue that is problem if it doesn't get solved.

My issue however is right now I am having all kinds of issues as I am battling glitching issues, and if it get worst I might be able to race until I can get it fixed. I think it is in the ESC or the sensor wire, as I have used a 2nd Rx and it is still there. I will find out next race at the local track if it is a sensor wire or not (I did have one give me issues in the past at a series race, and I was thinking it was in the motor or some other crazy issues) as I will put my novak 13.5 back in (I normally run a trinity 8.5 and it has a replaceable sensor wire) to see if the glitching goes away or not. If not then it might be in the ESC or maybe both of my Rx's are bad. Whatever the case I hope it isn't the radio as I don't want to buy a new radio right yet. I am hoping that all I have to do is get a new ESC then later a new radio and a new li-po pack for my car. Also I want to get a real car (180K+ on a car to me isn't the best to make a hour and a half road trip as it has enough issues as it is (and I don't think it will make it to 200K))

One more thing, this isn't recommended, but if you find that your steering is lacking (truck isn't turning like it should) and/or is the 2nd or 3rd servo saver to strip out, then you might want to CA the thing together (be sure to hit it with a kicker as well). With the locked servo saver you will no longer have a servo saver (what gave that away lol), and the steering will be more precise and consentient. I run a locked servo saver (ok I don't even have one), as I use the GPM steering bit (not the whole rack), but you must use a plastic servo saver, and is normally better if you use high grade servo's.

Also sorry I slightly thread jacked this bit (not really as it is fun to talk about other things as well)



Mark, like lug said holeshots might work but those tires will die somewhat fast as well. Although they are nice they are on the fast side with wear. I think it your case gladiator (made by proline) might be a good tire; although they might be on the loose side they have a long life span. I have also used them in grass and they had enough grip but were free enough that they didn't cause too much resistance. Another tire that might work for you would be JConcepts Goosebumps (sp?). Other then that being that you are just playing there is no point in saying get race tires (that is what the JC's are), although they have a ton of grip with the right tire to surface they will normally wear really fast.

You guys are fuc**** rich getting all these cars lolz

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I know I'm not rich as I normaly only get 1 car a year (not sure how I manage that one), but right not I am down to only 1 and am using an Rx from one of the local racers. lol

Thanks E3 - I'll take a look at all of those...

Here are some pics of my car at the 2009 SCT Showdown at Outback RC in Marengo IL:













My Pit:






Other Pics: