Track Car v2.0

My "saleen makeover and track car" chassis has broken some knuckles and the gearbox is cracking too.

i went to my very first xmod:
the evo 8 w/body kit. then i painted it black:

and a supra body for it too.


then i thought i'd drive it outside. Got banged up and broke an axle:::

then i sanded it down and did my best to restore it.







then i painted it mica blue with a black base;





then i tinted the rears too and tried to make a chassis...


(body isn't mounted, that is why it is crooked)


i got the evo in 04 when the evos came out, all the above pics are from the beginning of 08 to about 04

as it sits now lol:


I cleaned the bearings but they were rusted, so i need some new bearings. i am going for some micro t elecs/servo. and some easy mods for lowering the cog/body/weight and what ever i can to race against the micro t's and z's at my lhs(hobby town usa), i also have my micro dt too(operation black widow).




Update: i ordered my parts from my lhs and have to pick them up on tuesday. i got the micro t esc and servo w/saver for $42. i don't have to pay for shipping and i had $10 in coupons, so i am happy. I also picked up a AAA battery holder so i can use my onyx 220 charger.

how many turns(of a 130 motor) do you think the micro t elecs can handle? i am thinking of winding a 38t with 8(9)/24 gearing.

Update:

my 38t motor stinks, i haven't wound in a couple of months. I am looking through my motor cans to find a better motor.

I got my micro t elcs and started working but the wire i had was too big. I am waiting on some bearings and wire to come in the mail, along with some Team Orion 900 hv's.

I have also cleaned out my diffs and gear boxes.

The supra went to the dremel and i dremeled out as much as i can(rear mount, little stubs, the center of the hood and the mirror hole/standoff things along with the side skirts, which are now glued on. just need to finish the chassis before i can mount it, i also rounded the fron bumper/wheel well so i doesn't look like a square)












Update:

My batteries arn't coming now, but i got a refund. I'll have to order from somewhere else then along with some rims and tires:D

I have cut the body a little more, to lower 2g:nod:

I also did the math:

my car with batteries( evo chassis, supra body, batteries): would be about 206-207g

and a (stock evo chassis, stock supra and batteries): would be about 210-211 grams

so 4 grams light, with awd and gpm!

anyways:








next besides batteries, rims and tires, would be a cf driveshaft, a new #6 crystal(i run this car and micro off the same remote), need to fix/buy a front diff, and maybe a HEBB motor can with a m1 endbell.


Update:

Well i did cut some more off of the body. still really strong. but i see some stuff that i could thin down another mm or 2.:nod: it is easily in the low 29g's. with the wing and mirrors it is 30g. I went to my not-so-close lhs, and i picked up some ball links for a future project and while i was there got asked about some batteries. since the Team Orion 900's are out i was thinking of ordering some intellecs. but i got a set of Team Orion 700mah and Intellecs! Didn't have to wait or pay for shipping. I never knew T.O made these batteries. they are pretty good.

enough talk, some pics, and Whitecarsima i have some servo horn pics for you.














i also lowered the servo a bit. It now has 2 layers of double sided tape on the outside and 3 in the inside(stupid battery wire is in the way from the board)

thanks all comments welcome. I also saw that VDS III for the 94 mm chassis, which this chassis is 94mm... but i did so much to the supra.

Update:

I have been working on a way to be able to remove the batteries without taking the body off and still being able to use the battery cover...










The piece of styrene on the battery cover was for my first idea, velcro same with the wider hole in the bottom of the chassis.
velcro: did it work: yes
did it work well:no
the problem was it wasn't steady and made the cover interfere with the ground...

idea #2 was to use a washer on the screw, except the washer was styrene
did it work: yes
did it work well: kind of
it worked well, kept it steady but it took long to take off

idea #3 and final idea
does it work: yes
does it work well: yes
This i used 1.5 mm styrene instead of 1mm i drilled a hole and fit the styrene piece no all side of the screw and kept it longer on one side and made that side thinner, basically a latch. it works great!!

i also cut off the clips on the side of the battery cover so it wouldn't clip in place. I only need the latch on one side because i am not using anything powerful enough to move the cover, it holds very well actually. it also ways a little less than a stock battery cover, not really much though.

you are probably asking why did i do this???:-? I did this because i was going to bring this thing to race with at my lhs, except the switch broke when gluing it to the chassis, glue seeped into the switch so i couldn't move it. While i was at the races i asked about a replacement switch, they said you are better off doing a bypass. so i did. it was a pain working under the board, otherwise i would of had to take off the servo and the wires to get under the board. it works i just needed an easy way to take the batteries out so it wasn't on the whole time. and i solved that problem.

I did cut the side vent support things on the front bumper a little more and trimmed the hood are down flush with the hood, i also cut away more where the wheel well is so under full suspension the tire wouldn't rub on anything. it now ways 28g and 29 grams with the wing and mirrors.

the chassis i took off the hotglue(except one are where some would only come off) by the board and used super glue and 2x sided tape to secure it. I lost about a gram doing this.

it now runs great!:nod: I just need to get a new motor /can and a cf drive shaft.

I did bring something to the races. I brought my micro dt "operation: Black Widow" i got 3rd out of 3 it was my first time on a closed course, i got 20laps, 2nd was 23 and 1st was 27, for a 3 minute race. Not bad, ileft before the 2nd and 3 races, i needed food.

Update:


pics of the antenna

I made the servo horn shorter and i now have the 1.5* tierod. I believe i stripped my diff, so i fixed it. now my steering is messed up. I think i need to loosen the diff, it might be a little tight.

Some of my stuff should have come today... but it didn't.


I have more pictures but it said i had too many, so i cut out about 10. I will post them in the next post.


Latest Update

Update:

I did get my 2 packages unfortunately one thing came broken(motor endbell) so i can't use my armature yet.

I decided to clean up mounting job and try to get the elecs lower. I also did some more cutting. I ended up turning the board 180* and working in the wiring a bit. Now everything is a little lower, and looks cleaner.

I needed to clean some stuff too.(mainly bearings!)

What i got now:
-Team Redmade 38t motor, pattern wound, fat comm, 28g wire, spiral arm.
-CF driveshaft
-M1 HE BB motor case kit that the endbell came broken... nobody sells it seperately so i can't really buy it separately. I contacted who i got it from. We will see.










My bearings we really dirty(i just kept the bearings on the Axle stub, no reason) Then i used some Moo-slick to lube them again. That is were it sits as of right now.

thanks,
fieldfairy2

Wow, the pictures look great, I'll have to read through it tomorrow because right now I have way too big of a headache to try, but it looks pretty good from the stuff I've already read. BTW, love the blue paint job.

Thanks man. This thread is from the very beginning of the project. Which is more than 3 months for sure. The evo 8 was my first xmod. It has been through like 3 or 4 paint jobs since this blue. The previous paint jobs were all thick and crappy. I sanded it down as best i could. Then i took some putty out to fix all the little dents. in the process of past paint jobs and sanding it down i lost a few body lines(windows mainly). I tried my best to find where the windows began and ended.

I race this with the Micro t's with MTM. He has seen thing in action. I also race my Micro dt. So i switch off races with this and the dt. I think it handles great. I can't wait till i get my Motor endbell fixed replaced or if i buy a new one. Then this thing will dominate the track.(as long as Lightspeed v2 isn't working, or the diff actually works)

Update:

got every thing mounted and running.











As you can see the board and servo are mounted a lot lower. and the car has definitely lost weight.:nod:

The wiring is also a lot cleaner

the chassis was 123 and now is 114. 9 grams:o

overall: was 201 now is 195. 6 grams? maybe my batteries are heavier. I was running Intellecs vs. Orions.(have both just switch off)


thanks fieldfairy2

Update:

Been a long time and decided to try and fix my m1 endbell and it works, a little CA glue and i now can use the 38t pattern wound motor.





thanks.

That car is looking sweet so far.

And there's still xmod parts...so many of these builds were cars that got rid of anything xmod one piece at a time. Nice work.

Thanks guys.

update:

A little more trimming to the front of the supra along with a battery cover. I can now say i am under the 200g weight(with everything.)

A Little dyno action too. THe chart shows km/h to mph.











thanks guys.