MTM's Xray T2 007

I finally recieved my xray T2 007, and i gota say...

Its the Top Of The Line when it comes to Top Of The Line!!!

Just look for yourself!




Font Suspension:





Rear Suspension:





Swiss 7076 Milled Aluminum Front Knuckles:



Swiss 7076 Milled Aluminum Rear Hubs:



More random Pics, look for the detail like capture hinge pins, vetical ball studs, ect.













This T2 007 has the following to get it to the finish line in first place:

Hudy spring steel drive shafts, and turnbukles
Aluminum knuckles and rear hubs
impact absorbant bumper
cf battery strap and alum stands (nicest battery strap ive ever laid eyes on!)
2.5mm cf upper and lower multiflex technology chassie plates/decks
Alum. bulkheads
And much more that i can keep rambling on about lol!


More random pics:









The 3.5mm chassie i got along with it;



The instructions are top notch (better than traxxas imo!)
And the setup manual is literally a book!



More random pics:









And more recent pics:









I finally got to race this thing, and woha!!! Its a blast!!!

I was runnign hot in the first two rounds of Sunday's racing, so i geared down and purchased a 3racing motor heatsink/fan combo and installed it fan is plugged in correctly in the batt. outlet, and it still no workey???) Temps were in check for the rest of the day.

Look at post 1509:

[url="http://www.rctech.net/forum/wisconsin-illinois-racing/190179-track-harbor-hobbies-51.html"]http://www.rctech.net/forum/wisconsin-illi...hobbies-51.html[/url]

^^ results

I tqed the first round, and got 2nd in the last 2 rounds and got 2nd in the main. I was sooo close, and i caught up to the guy too! Then i biffed and it 1st was all over for me...

Anyways, an amazing car, just gota dial out a little less on-power push.
(I'm Kyle Zwicker)

that is abosulutly beautaful, (i know i can't spell) but the machine work and the layout and precision of everything, thats toally top notch and just insane i bet its a dream to drive, i got a friend trying to sell his cuz he just got the 08 i belive and needs the $$$
either way nice car,

what i got a thing for precsion metal works...

the lug

That is really nice. I love the readed rubber tires, did those come with it? I may have to see hw much the replacement tires go for, oh and see if they are anywhere near a usable size.

I hate you MTM haha jk, that thing must be a dream to drive, looked like a lot of fun though, all that CF is beautiful

First off the X-Ray instructions are the best out of all of the RC cars companies, and Traxxas is one of the worst IMO.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/wisconsin-illinois-racing/190179-track-harbor-hobbies-51.html
Link that works^^

You didn't do too bad, and only being 3.5 sec from the lead at the finnish made for a really good show. And the fact that you were that close at the end of the race is really good bing that 1st place was faster then you overall, even though you had the fastes lap in the race. Also you were faster then the guy you finnished 4th in the normal class or pro class (however you want to look at it).

BTW when did you make a mistake? Were you trying to pass him for the lead?

Also if you slowdown the weight transfer a little when you get on the gas it will give you a little more on power steering.


Yeah the x-ray car are sweet, but I don't have the money for one of those, and I am really liking my AE TC5.

rclugnut wrote:

that is abosulutly beautaful, (i know i can't spell) but the machine work and the layout and precision of everything, thats toally top notch and just insane i bet its a dream to drive, i got a friend trying to sell his cuz he just got the 08 i belive and needs the $$$
either way nice car,

what i got a thing for precsion metal works...

the lug

If the price is right, get the t2 007, its an older car, but has enough newer tech to keep it up there with the big guys.

sidewinder wrote:

That is really nice. I love the treaded rubber tires, did those come with it? I may have to see how much the replacement tires go for, oh and see if they are anywhere near a usable size.

What are you looking to use them in? If you want them, id be happy to sell them to you:)

musclecar201 wrote:

I hate you MTM haha jk, that thing must be a dream to drive, looked like a lot of fun though, all that CF is beautiful

It drives great, just the horrid push that all. And CF = Major BLING, and a stiff chassie, but im keeping it soft with the eu chassie.

evil3 wrote:

First off the X-Ray instructions are the best out of all of the RC cars companies, and Traxxas is one of the worst IMO.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/wisconsin-illinois-racing/190179-track-harbor-hobbies-51.html
Link that works^^

You didn't do too bad, and only being 3.5 sec from the lead at the finnish made for a really good show. And the fact that you were that close at the end of the race is really good bing that 1st place was faster then you overall, even though you had the fastes lap in the race. Also you were faster then the guy you finnished 4th in the normal class or pro class (however you want to look at it).

BTW when did you make a mistake? Were you trying to pass him for the lead?

Also if you slowdown the weight transfer a little when you get on the gas it will give you a little more on power steering.


Yeah the x-ray car are sweet, but I don't have the money for one of those, and I am really liking my AE TC5.

Sorry for the bad link LOL!

I started in second, but about 3 laps in, the leader got caught up with another car and i took the lead. My lead lasted fro about 7 laps and then i scraped a corner which messed up my line for the next couple corners and i biffed and hit another car. Bob took the lead, but i cuaght up agian after about another 5 laps and i was soo close to taking the lead agian, but one of the racers cars was being interfered with the straights power outlets and it sorta just stoped right in front of me. I nailed it and lost about 1/2 a lap. From then on i just kept running as fast as i could untill the end.

To tell you the truth i dont have to money for one either, thats why i bought one used for $160 shipped. Its in great shape, really just carpet wear on the chassie's bottom thats all.

Next up is a front multi diff!

BTW, thans for the tip evil

You don't really need the multi diff, so I would just save your money to get extra parts for the car (as for if you were to break). I don't know what you have in your car, but if you have a one way then you should be fine, or if you have a front diff then you would be fine. But a spool really shouldn't be used if you are on carpet, as they are more for pavement when there is almost no tracting or if you are new to racing as they cause a push.

Speeking of that what is in the front of your car? A oneway, diff, or spool?

I am using a diff.

You shuold be fine with the diff, but if you wanted a little more off power steering then a oneway would be the way to go.

Ok another question (I am asking a ton of them I know, lol), how are you driving the car around the track? Is the car in a constent arc, or are you trying to make things more stright line? Keeping the car arced will also give you a better line in the turns which might help the push just a little (you might be to tight entering, so that is giving you the idea that it is pushing), and it will also get you better lap times over all (more laps that are a 10th off of the who ever ran the fastest lap is faster then the guy who ran the fastest lap in the rack most of the time).

Dang bro!! That thing looks sweet!! Great job on the body!

Thanks Sk8r!!!

NP Evil, i like it when ppl ask me questions lol!
Lets see, um I normally drive the line that is closest to the corner's apex, but is also smooth feeling, not darting from one corner to the next. I like to keep it ''flowing''.

I was talking about how do you enter the turn.

Keeping things flowing is the key to raceing, but if you are too tight entering the turn then you will be too wide exiting. That also means that if there is a small stright inbetween turns that is maybe 1/4 to 1/3 to the main stright taking that as a stright line is slower then making an arc form the exit of the last to turn to the entrance of the next turn. It might sound strange to enter the turns a little wider, but that will make your turn a little smoother witch in turn will get you better lap times over all. (you racing for the more consinent times, not a blistering fast lap).

Also a little tip if you are on the line that is closest to the apex then you might be to tight in the turns, as really you should tighten up right at the apex (- (the ( is the line you should take, and the - is the turn).


I sadly don't have any more questions, but if you have any genral racing questions I should be able to help you out.

Ok, thanks a bunch for all the great info! Ill try adjusting my style to the one you just described and go from there.

But to tell you the truth, i dont think its just my driving (although a good portion of the problem) ut t the setup as well. Keep in mind that i only have had 1 hour of setup time on this car.

Before you ask (lol) heres my setup:
1 degree - front camber
2 degree front toe out
2 degree rear camber
2 degree rear toe in

and 4 degree caster all around (might be 6 up front, cant remember...?)

Oh, almost forgot to mention that the jr z590m servo has gota go! Its was too slow for this application!

The JR z590 isn't that bad, but that is because that is all I tend to use. lol But yes it is on the slow side.


Also I can't help much when it comes to toe and camber angle, but -2* of toe out is a lot. Also you might want to try a little more - camber up front, and a little less - camber in the rear (although that might be fine).

BTW castor is only on the front, not rear. That would be an angle like this / [front to rear if viewed from the left side] (that would give you postive castor based on the king pin or rotanal axis)


Yeah your driving might not make a big differnce, but it will help a little. Although I think if you can slow down the weight transfer a little, or free up the rear end just a little it should be where you need to be. Also I would rather drive a car that pushes, then somthing that loops around, as if it pushes then you should be close to the right set-up (that is for the on-power push, but if it pushed going into and out of the turn then a major set-up over hull would be needed), But you would be amazed at how driving the car differnt changes the way the car works.


HA I thought of another question (but it is dealing with driving again). lol When entering the turns how long are you letting off of the throttle? Are you letting it roll through the turns, or are you getting back on the throttle as soon as the car starts to turn?

When I drive my TC (I race the foam tire class at my track as that is what they run) I let off just enough to let the car start to turn, then once it starts to turn I am back hard on the throttle. I don't know how much grip the hpi tires have, but when I drove one of my friends cars in a race I was still getting on the throttle once the car started to turn, although I did have to enter a little slower then with my car.

I let off the throttle from the enterance of the turn till i just reach the apex, then i get back on the throttle

I don't know how much grip you have but I am on the throttle before I get into the turn, as I am only letting off to transfer the weight to the front so it turns. So I am full throttle through the apex, but again I don't know how much grip you have being that I race with foams which allows the car to be drivin harder as there is almost too much grip.

I have plenty of grip (im not running the hpi's anymore) i am running jaco blues with jack the gripper and have plenty of grip. There is no slip or breaking of traction ever.
I think i might get the xray servo arm (the one designed for the car) casue i modified on that i had to work, but it is very short and doesnt allow the car to turn its tires fully.
I let of the throttle so much because i know that im gona hit the wall if i get back on any sooner.

So are you running trans am, or normal rubber tire?

But having the right servo arm, should help as well to get the right amount steering. Also maybe an akerman change might also get the car where you need it (just be sure to change one thing at a time, or if you really want to play with some stuff change more then one thing (not recomended but a exp. tuner might get away with it).

Normal rubber tire 17.5 is what i signed up for, but since it was my first time racing there (real race, not practice) Eric put me in sportsman.

Ya, im definatly getting a new servo and servo arm, just gota wait till after i sell some stuff and after the holidays.

Micro-T Master wrote:

sidewinder wrote:

That is really nice. I love the treaded rubber tires, did those come with it? I may have to see how much the replacement tires go for, oh and see if they are anywhere near a usable size.

What are you looking to use them in? If you want them, id be happy to sell them to you:)

I'm trying to do a custom build using an old bolink pan car. It will have a custom built hard shell Camaro body (the build is a lot harder than I thought it was going to be...it may never actually get built). I'm going to have to make my own wheels since want it to look like a real Camaro. What I really wish I could find would be a scale repilca of some old Firestone tires.