Paging Dr. Diff (RCLug)

Dr. Diff - Per our conversation of a few days ago, please see the photo of the thrust bearing assembly on my Evader below.



The black nylon beveled washer to the most right goes on the bolt first - that I could figure out. The next two brass looking washers have a slight bevel on each on the inside and these are the ones that don't show up on the exploded view. The next is the thrust bearing and the last washer to the most left is a simple flat washer with a groove worn in it - I'm pretty sure the first time I took this apart, the flat washer went against the thrust bearing.

So....have you seen a thrust bearing assembly like this? I think it resembles the thrust bearing rebuild kit I have seen on the internet somewhere, maybe on the coalition and I think the poster said it came without instructions LOL!

How should I reassemble? This last go-around, I had the back of one the beveled brass looking washers riding against the thrust balls, it looks fine but I'm still not sure if that is correct.

Thanks for any help ;-)

Mark

I think there is 1 too many washers there.


Anyways being that I am not looking at the instruct's I would guess but with the first washer with the bevel on it would go down to match the other peices. Then the bearing cage (I will call it that), and then the plain flat washer.

Just besure to use a bunch of black grease as thrust bearings take a ton of abuse.

Also at this point in time I think you might be better off rebuliding it if you can, and that washer looks shoot, unless you can flip it over to a nice flat surfface.

yeah basically what pyro said, you got an extra washer in there for sure i'd pull both brass ones as brass is softer than steel and the steel balls will wear into it very quickly. i'd see if you can find a steel washer of a similar thickness to the one on the far left or use two to get a similar thickness i'm a little worried about the outdrive hitting the bolt but highly dought it but better safe than sorry, and like pyro said tons of black grease if not you will burn that stock gear to next year... like so...



the lug

Lug that is from having the diff to loose and having it slip way too much.

yeah cuz my thrusty didn't have enough balls and lube.... (that sounds really awkward), so it loosened up and poof... it was also on 11 cells but i've done that a few other times on other diffs that one just happend faster and was the first one of the pics i have of my diff burning out that i found, i have a ton of those center rings that are just floating around my room its pretty bad....

the lug

I'm not actually sure that the brass colored washers are really brass, they may be zinc coated steel.

I will probably sandwich the carrier in between those two washers and pitch the worn steel washer.

Thanks Guys!

Mark, I didn't know which Evader you have but here's the link to all of the exploded parts views: Duratrax PDFs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycjguJFUA8c
part 1
part 2 should be up soon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_ZU3-K9sD8

that should help ya a bit...

the lug

Great Vids, Lug!

I got my Evader back together last night, it seems fine but in watching your vid, you mention the Diff lock nut should be on the drivers side...mine is currently on the passenger side and my adjustment is on the drivers side

Is this a problem!?

Disregard my last question - I got the whole diff thing figured out after seeing your vid and reading thru the coalition...

Thanks Lug!

MarkM wrote:

Great Vids, Lug!

I got my Evader back together last night, it seems fine but in watching your vid, you mention the Diff lock nut should be on the drivers side...mine is currently on the passenger side and my adjustment is on the drivers side

Is this a problem!?

i've noticed its been prone to loosening up if its on the left (drivers) side and a loose ball diff equals fail

the lug